La capital de Rusia no es solamente el Kremlin turistico, la Plaza Roja y el mausoleo de Lenin. Aquí cerca se encuentra el otro fascinante Moscú. Por supuesto Usted tiene
que entrar al Mausoleo después de hacer una fila larga, hay que hacer fotos en la Plaza Roja. Es obligatorio ir a ver la Plaza de las Catedrales, el campanario de Iván el Grande que se encuentra en la parte más alta del Kremlin.
Hace falta que camine por la calle Arbat, la calle más famosa peatonal de la ciudad. Hay que visitar la Plaza de Teatros cerca del teatro Bolshoi, ver la torre de televisión Ostánkino que es tan alta como el cielo. Después sería mejor que saliera del
camino conocido.
En el centro de la ciudad, a pocos kilómetros de la Plaza Roja y del Kremlin se extiende el Anillo de Bulevares.
Está rodeado por plazas, parques y caminos interesantes que Usted verá en companía del guía ruso.
Uno de estos lugares que recuerda una pista de hielo en invierno se encuentra al lado de la calle Malaya Bronnaya (desde la calle Bolshaya Sadovaya).
Este lugar legendario de los Estanques de Patriarca se menciona en la novela de Mikhail Bulgakov “el Maestro y Margarita” cuando Berlioz y la persona sin casa estaban sentados en un banco “con su
cara hacia el estanque y la espalda para la calle Bronnaya.” Al lado se sentó un desconocido misterioso en un traje gris – Voland, o el mismo
diablo.
Es sorprendente que en los Estanques del Patriarca no exista ningún monumento a Bulgakov, o a ningún personaje de su novela. El gobierno soviético prohibía leer los libros de este escritor, por eso todos los lugares aquí fueron ocupados por los personajes de los cuentos del fabulista Ivan Krylov y también su monumento se encuentra aquí.
Las huellas de Bulgakov las encontramos cerca – él vivía en la casa número 10 de la calle Bolshaya Sadovaya. En la pared al lado de la puerta poco atrayente, hay una placa semejante que casi no se ve: “En esta casa desde 1921-24 vivió y trabajó el escritor Mijaíl Afanasievixh Bulgakov. Aquí escribió su novela “El maestro e Margarita”.
Caminando a lo largo del lado izquierda del bulevar, busque el edificio número 23, donde atrás al fondo se ve una iglesia antigua de San Juan el Teólogo ( el apóstolo Juan) que data el año 1620 con el campanario construido en el siglo XVIII. Después de casi 300 años de la existencia pacífica del templo en 1914 en la casa al lado fue abierto un teatro. En los próximos 50 años los dos establecimientos luchaban entre si. Un día cerraban el teatro otro día la iglesia.
Caminando más lejos a lo largo del bulevar Tverskoy, llegamos a la Plaza de las torres-puertas Nikitskiye, en el cruce de la calle Nikitskaya la Grande e la calle Nikitskaya la Pequeña. En el siglo XIV aquí había un camino entre la ciudad de Novgorod el Grande y Moscú. En este lugar existía una iglesia de San Nikita, que para el final del siglo XVI se transformó en el Convento Nikitsky (de aquí deriva el nombre de la calle).
Una de las atracciones es también el bulevar Chistoprudniy con un lago grande donde vivían los cisnes. Los moscovitas simplemente llaman este bulevar Los Estanques limpios.
El lago existía en este lugar hace mucho tiempo antes de que se formó el bulevar y en el siglo XVII no era limpio. En aquel tiempo este lago se llamaba “basura” porque aqui dejaban los restos de los animales de una carnicería local. Quien estaba en Moscú hace unos años, va a notar una diferencia grande. Faltan casi todas las atracciones monumentales – monumentos del comunismo.
Usted podrá verlos en otra parte de la ciudad, en un parque extraordinario, parque-museo al lado del río Moscova cerca de la Galeria Tretiakov Nueva en la calle Krimsky Val (metro “Oktiabrskaya”, parque Gorky, en frente de la entrada).
Vale la pena ver este parque de las esculturas abandonadas de Lenin, Stalin, Dzerzhinsky y otros ídolos comunistas. Y al lado de éstas – las esculturas modernas y obras de arte de los artistas-estudiantes.
Del parque de las esculturas se ve muy bien un nuevo símbolo de la ciudad que se eleva sobre el río Moscova, construído a finales de los años 90 del siglo XX, una estátua gigante de Pedro I, proyectada por el escultor ruso famoso Zurab Tseriteli.
El monumento es tan alto alto (94,5 m) que se puede verlo desde cualquier lugar del centro de la ciudad. A los moscovitas no les gusta esto, pero no solo esto. Es que Pedro I odiaba esta ciudad, y fue él quien trasladó la capital a San-Petersburgo.
El monumento lo intentaron a explodir varias veces, por eso ahora siempre está protegido. Cuando Usted llegue a la Catedral del Cristo Salvador, si se pone con su espalda hacia ésta, Usted verá el bulevar de Gogol. Caminando por el bulevar Usted llegará a uno de los lugares más desconocidos e inexplorados de Moscú- la calle Arbat Viejo. La acera famosa está siempre llena de vendedores de la calle, artistas y turistas.
Y al final del bulevar de Gogol se encuentra un monumento (claro!) a Nikolai Gogol donde comienza la calle Arbat Nuevo.
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