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É necessário caminhar pela rua Arbat, a mais famosa rua de pedestres da cidade, e passear pela Praça dos Teatros, perto do Teatro Bolshoi, olhar para a torre de televisão Ostankino, alta como o céu. E então depois é melhor sair do caminho conhecido … Pelo centro da cidade, a poucos quilómetros da Praça Vermelha e do Kremlin, se estende o Anel de Boulevards.
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Um desses lugares que lembra uma pista de gelo no inverno, fica ao lado da rua Malaya Bronnaya (a partir da rua Bolshaya Sadovaya).
Este lugar lendário das Lagoas do Patriarca é um lugar onde no romance de Mikhail Bulgakov do “O Mestre e Margarida” Berlioz e a pessoa sem lar estavam sentados num banco ” com face à lagoa e costas para a rua Bronnaya.” Ao lado sentou um estranho misterioso em um terno cinza – Voland, ou o proprio diabo.
É surpreendente que nas Lagoas do Patriarca não existe nenhum monumento para Bulgakov, ou nenhum dos personagens de seu romance. O governo soviético proibia ler os livros deste escritor, por isso todos os lugares aquí foram ocupados pelos personagens dos contos do fabulista Ivan Krylov e ha uma estátua para ele mesmo.
Traços de Bulgakov encontramos perto – ele morava na casa na rua Bolshaya Sadovaya 10. Na parede ao lado da porta despercebida, lembra-nos desto uma chapa semelhante imperceptível: “Nesta casa desde 1921-24 morou e trabalhou o escritor Mijail Afanasievixh Bulgakov. Aquí desenvolveu o romance “O Mestre e Margarida”.
Caminhando ao longo do lado esquerdo do Boulevard, procure o predio número 23, onde atrás no fundo da rua Você verá uma igreja antiga de São João o Teólodo ( o apóstolo João) que data o ano 1620 com o campanario construido no século XVIII. Depois de quase 300 anos de existência pacífica do templo em 1914 na casa ao lado foi aberto um teatro. No próximo meio século, as duas organizações lutaram ferozmente entre si. Um dia fechabam o teatro, outro dia – a Igreja.
Indo mais longe ao longo do Tverskoy Boulevard, chegamos a Praça das torres-portas Nikitskiye, no cruzamento da Rua Nikitskaya Grande e a rua Nikitskaya pequena. No século XIV aqui havia uma estrada de Novgorod Grande para Moscou. Neste lugar existia uma igreja de São Nikita, que no final do século XVI cresceu no Convento Nikitsky (daí o nome da rua).
Uma das atrações também é o Chistoprudny Boulevard com um lago grande onde moram os cisnes. Os moscovitas chamam este boulevard simplesmente Lagoas Limpas.
O lago existia no local muito antes do Boulevard e no século XVII certamente não era limpo. Naquele tempo a lagoa chamava-se “lixo” porque aqui deixavam os restos de um matadouro local. Quem estava em Moscou há alguns anos, vai notar uma grande mudança. Faltam quase todas as atracções monumentais – monumentos do comunismo.
Você vai encontrá-los em outra parte da cidade, num extraordinário parque-museu nas margens do rio Moscou, perto de Nova Galeria Tretyakov na rua Krymsky Val (metro “Oktiabtakaya”, parque Gorky, em frente à entrada).
O parque das esculturas certamente vale a pena ver. La Você verá as figuras abandonadas de Lenin, Stalin, Dzerzhinsky e outros ídolos comunistas. E ao lado deles – esculturas modernas e obras de arte de artistas-estudantes.
Do parque das esculturas está muito bem visto o novo símbolo da cidade elevando-se sobre o rio Moscou, construído no final dos anos 90 do século XX, uma estátua gigante de Pedro I, projetada pelo escultor russo famoso Zurab Tseriteli.
O monumento é tão alto (94,5 m) que pode ser visto de qualquer lugar no centro da cidade. Os moscovitas não gostam isso, mais não só isso. É que Pedro I odiava esta cidade, e foi ele quem mudou a capital para São-Petersburgo.
Várias vezes tentaram explodir o monumento, por isso hoje está protegido sempre. Estando ao lado da Catedral do Cristo Salvador, virando de costas para ela, Você vai ver o Boulevard de Gogol. Caminhando pelo boulevard Você chegará a um dos lugares mais desconhecidos e inexplorados de Moscou – a rua Arbat Velho. A calçada famosa está sempre cheia de vendedores de rua, artistas e turistas.
E no final do Boulevard de Gogol há um monumento (claro!) a Nikolai Gogol onde começa a rua Arbat Novo.
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